Medieval Linen Undertunic | BushcraftUK Neighborhood

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Soon after obtaining a great time lately at the Traquair medieval fair, I’ve created some interest in medieval clothes. Soon after a bit of investigation, it appears that just about everyone wore some sort of light tunic as an undergarment, and they had been invariably produced of linen. I decided to have a go at creating one particular, and got some all-natural (not dyed or bleached) lined fabric from the Cloth Shop in Edinburgh (a branch of Remnant Kings).

To perform out sizes and all round style, I made use of my Swanndri Bush Shirt as a basis since that is a quite great match and has some capabilities that I wanted to consist of in the tunic (the common reduce, and the gussets in the underarms and at the hips). Soon after a bit of measuring and sketching, I had some material sizes worked out and did some cutting.

I had got just beneath 3m of fabric 1.4m wide, so went for a single-piece physique with the fold at the shoulders, and hanging down 90cm from the ridge of my collar bones…

Linen Undertunic 01.jpg

The neck hole size was worked out on some scrap cotton (quick to get on more than the head with no getting as well massive), and then drawn onto the fabric utilizing a residence produced compass…

Linen Undertunic 02.jpg

The neck hole has to be offset from the centre since humans are not symmetrical from front to back. There is a faint blue chalk line on the centre which I’ve indicated with a couple of blue marks. Once more, the scrap bit of cotton was made use of to perform out exactly where the ridges of my collar bones had been when the neck hole was sitting about appropriate.

The linen has fairly a loose weave and tends to fray conveniently, so I made use of my plastic amazing domestic machine of lots of stitch patterns to overlock all of the reduce edges…

Linen Undertunic 03.jpg

The unsewn edge on the leading piece is the selvedge of the fabric and should not fray. It was quite handy obtaining two sewing machines – I was capable to leave the multi-stitch one particular set up for this and use my old Singer for the actual sewing. I had identified that setting the tension was fairly finicky and required tiny adjustments to get it appropriate, so a couple of machine swaps was significantly less hassle than attempting to readjust.

The arms had been sewn on, and the fabric was then folded into quarters along the centre of the neck hole circle and the hole reduce out, overlocked, and a narrow fold applied for a hem…

Linen Undertunic 04.jpg

You can see how the centre lines of the arms are offset from the centre of the circle. I genuinely like these small clips rather of utilizing pins…

Linen Undertunic 05.jpg

I’ve identified pins a bit fiddly to use, specially with a narrow hem like this (about six-8mm). These go on with no obtaining to flex the fabric, have a great grip, and are quick to eliminate when you happen to be sewing at the machine…

Linen Undertunic 06.jpg

With the neck and arms performed, I then produced the gussets…

Linen Undertunic 07.jpg

The arms have a slight taper, so the gussets for these are a slight rhombus shape, which indicates the garment will lie flat – if they had been square, the arm seam would have been pulled out of line. The sizes for these and the hip gussets are the very same as on the Swanndri Bush Shirt. (Most of the seam allowances as 12-15mm, incidentally.)

An underarm gusset sewn along two edges, to the physique and arm…

Linen Undertunic 08.jpg

…and a complete arm / gusset / physique seam clipped collectively prior to sewing…

Linen Undertunic 09.jpg

I did not sew this in one particular go, but did the arm seam initial, then flipped it more than to do the two gusset seams, and then the physique seam. This let me feed the arm into the machine from the cuff with the bulk of the fabric to the left, then do the gusset with the smaller sized piece on leading so that I could retain an eye on it, and then flip back more than to do the physique seam from the gusset downwards, once more with the bulk to the left. The other side was the very same but mirrored. The hip gussets had been hemmed on their unsewn edge and then performed similarly. Then the reduced components of the unsewn sides had been hemmed, along with the bottom edges. Ultimately, I attempted it on, set the length of the sleeves and hemmed these.

And here’s the completed write-up…

Linen Undertunic 10.jpg

It all fits nicely – goes more than the head conveniently, and upwards arm movement is quite great. If something, there is some gathering of the cloth in front of the shoulders due to the straightforward arm holes, but I anticipated that.

I am pleased with the outcome. It was quite quick to make and I did not use a pattern apart from the gussets, which had been modest adequate to print – just some cautious measuring and marking, utilizing dimensions from my sketch.

 

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