I was going to create up some thing of worth. . . but nah.
I am seeing if I can 3d print a 40mm projectile I could use. Ideal now it requires me an hour to print 1 projectile. This initially 1 (v1) appears like the bands will engage the rifling ok, but the base is to narrow to keep in the casing.
Version two just completed printing as I typed the final sentence.
That appears like it could function.
I’m pretty certain there is absolutely nothing else of interest in that photo.
The main, and I imply main, downside to these 3d printed projectiles is that they are super light. About 20 grams. The chalk coaching round is someplace more than 100 grams. My reloading scale only goes up to 100 grams and I will not have access to a precision scale that could inform me the true weight till subsequent week.
At ideal, these projectiles would be 1/five the weight of the true deal. Most probably, a lot a lot significantly less than that. As a result the sights wont function and who knows exactly where these rounds will go. The weight distribution will also not be centered due to the random infill pattern. But they must go “thump” and go down variety, so I have four printing suitable now.
I was pondering about throwing some 20 gauge lead round balls in there to get the weight up, but I realized the way I wanted to do it would nonetheless leave it as well light. I could style v3 to be two components that screw collectively, and the fill it with lead shot. Generating it smaller sized & easier components I could give it strong infill to probably make the weight distribution additional constant.
I dunno. I want to attempt shooting some of these genuinely light 1 initially and see what they do.
I was hunting at an argument about how to zero the M16/M16A1. 1 group stated you set up a target at 25m and adjust your effect to be two.four cm under your point of aim. The other group says that you are suppose to set up your target at 25m and set your effect to be your point of aim.
A great deal disagreement and men and women quoting manuals.
Effectively. . . . I could not be a “printer repairman”, but I can study. The M16/M16A1 has TWO apertures. Not 1, but TWO. And guess what? You can zero it two diverse strategies. You can use the unmarked aperture at 25m impacting two.four cm low, or you can use the L marked aperture and zero at 25m and shoot point of aim point of effect.
That does not sound any entertaining. Probably we must just shoot at 42m employing the unmarked aperture. Wouldn’t that be much easier?
The left desires a boogaloo additional than you do.
The left hates gun owners, the left hates cops. They dream of the day when they could keep at residence and watch CNN to see gun owners and cops killing each and every other in the streets.
Shawn has written up a fair bit of instructional stuff for this web page. I’ve also written a handful of factors exactly where I act like I know what I am speaking about. Sadly I be concerned that as well a lot great content material we have made has been sorta lost to the public in our archives. Hopefully they would show up in a google search. But who knows for each and every person write-up.
When I get about to it, I want to make a “tutorial” or “training” web page on LooseRounds.com. There would be a curated list of the instructional stuff we have written up. That way, say if I wrote a post about how to zero a M16A1 sight, it would be listed in some acceptable category on the tutorial web page.
Some other time even though, I am just goofing off suitable now.
Oh, and given that I favor freedom units. 25m is from time to time rounded to 1000 inches. 42m would be about 46 yards, or .21 furlongs.